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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. But, tucked prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the owners utterly surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest shop securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary achievement.